Traction Bars

I ordered a set of Lakewood 20475 clamp on traction bars. Traction bars prevent axle wrap, when the spring tries to twist from the torque of the differential. When the spring starts to twist, the traction bars hit the spring eye and keep the springs from twisting.

When adjusted correctly, the snubber should be 1/2″ below the spring eye. You can put shims under the rear traction bar mount to raise the snubber or cut the snubber to lower it. Be sure to adjust them with the weight of the car on the suspension.


Bodyman in a can

My hood scoop was pulling away from the hood and cracking in the front, so I stripped the primer and rust off the area and re-filled it in. There were also a few low spots on the hood that I filled in while I was at it.

!!!!!!!!! SAFETY FIRST !!!!!!!!!

Homemade Shackles

I am planning on putting bigger tires in the rear of the car, so I decided to make some extended shackles to lift the car about 1″. I got some 1-1/2″ x 1/4″ flat steel and cut it into 4 10″ pieces. I drilled the first hole 3/4″ from the end, and the second hole 7″ from the first hole. I started with a pilot hole, then drilled to 3/8″, then drilled to the final 1/2″ hole.

Here you can see the difference between the stock shackle and the extended one.

I plan on making a second pair out of 2″ x 3/8″ steel just in case these start to bend.

And don’t worry, I ordered a set of bright yellow slapper traction bars to go with this…=D

Bolt-in Rear Windows

I am going to be installing side scoops with rear brake cooling ducts. Since the car is a coupe, the ducting interferes with the rear window tracks. I removed all the tracks and regulators and bolted the windows in to be able to fit the ducting.

I made a spacer out of a piece of 1×2, and the strap is a strip of ~1/16″ steel. The setup clamps the window into place using existing mounting holes.

The window can be adjusted by loosening the bolts and moving the window.

Here you can see the edge of the 1×2 that keeps the window spaced out from the quarter panel: